Monday, March 19, 2012












It is a good, simple cake; Nigella Lawson's Banana Bread. If you have bananas ripening too fast in the fruit bowl, try it. 

Don't forget to marinate the raisins for an hour or so - I have tried brandy, rum, tia maria, even sloe gin; the quantity is small, and the alcohol is cooked off, but leaves subtle hints of exotica. This time i used a Morris Tokay (a raisin-y dessert liqueur) from Rutherglen, AUS .. i am working my way through his abandoned wine cellar.

Sunday, March 4, 2012





With little regard for volume of salt or sugar, but who cares when it tastes so bloody good?

Mirin-glazed salmon, from Nigella Lawson 

I made the whole amount just to feed myself one fillet for this evening, and the rest to serve cold with salad  tomorrow.

60ml mirin (Japanese sweet rice wine)
50g light brown sugar (or a little less weight of palm sugar)
60ml tamari (gluten-free soy sauce)
4 x 125g pieces salmon, cut from the thick part of the fillet so that they are narrow but tall rather than wide and flat
2 x 15ml tbsp rice vinegar
1-2 spring onions, halved and shredded into fine strips
  • Mix the mirin, brown sugar and soy sauce in a shallow dish that will take all 4 pieces of salmon, and marinate the salmon in it for 3 minutes on the first side and 2 minutes on the second. Meanwhile heat a large non-stick frying pan on the hob.
  • Cook the salmon in the hot, dry pan for 2 minutes and then turn it over, add the marinade and cook for another 2 minutes.
  • Remove the salmon to whatever plate you’re serving it on, add the rice vinegar to the hot pan and warm through.
  • Pour the dark, sweet, salty glaze over the salmon and top with the spring onion strips. Serve with rice or noodles as you wish, and consider putting some sushi ginger on the table, too.

Tuesday, April 26, 2011


An antidote to chocolate brownies. Gateau Breton; a traditional cake from Brittany. I haven't yet made it in the original form - with buckwheat or sarrasin, a nutty low-gluten grain - but i shall. With such few ingredients it is best to use the best .. the flavour of good butter with shine. 

Vanilla and sweet butter, with a dense bite (imagine a soft shortbread) and a sophisticated melt in the mouth texture (imagine butterscotch melting in your mouth). 

I like Nigella Lawson's version (of course) but there are many more versions on the 'net. 

25cm spring form cake tin, well greased.

225g plain flour - ideally 00 grade pasta flour - sieved
250g caster sugar - preferably from your store of vanilla sugar.
250g unsalted butter
6 large egg yolks
A glaze of a teaspoon of egg yolk from the 6, and a tablespoon of water (or milk)

Preheat oven to 190C.

If you have a mixer; add the sieved flour, sugar, butter and eggs and mix with a dough hook until combined into a bright yellow dough. 

If you have no mixer; Make a mound of the sieved flour on a worktop, make a well in it and add the sugar, butter and eggs. Knead to mix.

Scoop the dough into the tin and smooth the top with a floured hand. Expect the dough to be very sticky. Brush the gateau with the glaze and mark a lattice design on top.

Bake for 15 mins, then turn the oven down to 180C (350f) and give it another 25 minutes or so until it's golden on top and firm to the touch. Let cool completely before turning out and slicing randomly into diamond shaped tokens.


Wednesday, February 23, 2011




Nigel Slater's Best Brownies. Heaven in a tin. The fudgy moist centre is the aim. 

300g caster sugar
250g butter
250g chocolate (70% cocoa solids)
3 large eggs plus 1 extra yolk
50g gluten free flour (60g plain wheat flour)
60g cocoa powder
½ tsp baking powder

Preheat oven to 180ºC and line a baking tin with greaseproof paper. 

Mix the sugar and butter into a fluffy pale cloud. Set aside 50g of the chocolate (chop it up into gravel-sized pieces) and melt the rest - 20 seconds at time in the microwave, stirring after each blast. Meanwhile sift together the flour, cocoa, and baking powder with a pinch of salt.

Mix the beaten eggs into the sugar and butter fluff, a quarter at a time. Beat fast in between additions. Add the melted chocolate and the broken up chocolate (i used white chocolate in this version) then fold in the flour/cocoa and baking powder mixture as gently as possible. 

Put the mixture into the cake tin and put it into the oven for 25 minutes. The surface should have crusted over, but with a wobble underneath. Check with a skewer - if too much mixture clings then put it back for 3 more minutes, but no longer. 

Sunday, February 20, 2011


I made 2 batches of chocolate brownies at the beginning of the week, which left one egg white per batch languishing in my fridge. These are worth making even if you don't need to use up leftovers - add the extra yoke to your frittata or scrambled egg instead.

2 egg whites (unbeaten), 175g icing sugar, 30g of cocoa and 200g ground almonds, mixed together with a fork. Pinch and roll into walnut-sized balls (keep fingers wet), bake at 200ºC for exactly 11 minutes. They will harden as they cool, but you want to keep the moist chewy centre. Try and stop eating them, if you can.

Tuesday, February 15, 2011


Chicken Stew, my version of Nigel Slater's Chicken stew and mash, Kitchen Diaries.

Chicken thighs, 8
Olive oil - 50ml, plus extra
Balsamic vinegar - 50ml
garlic - 4 cloves, peeled
Dried herbs - an Italian mix
bay leaves - 4 or 5
pared rind of a small orange
leeks - 3 or 4, thickly sliced

Put the chicken in a bowl (not plastic). Pour over the olive oil and a couple of tablespoons of balsamic vinegar, tuck in the bay leaves and garlic cloves, a scatter of dried herbs, salt and pepper and the orange rind. Leave overnight or for at least four or five hours.


Set the oven at 200ºC. Heat enough oil in a shallow pan. Shaking each piece of chicken (the marinade will spit in the hot pan), fry each piece until golden brown on each side. Transfer to a casserole dish with a lid. In the same pan, fry the leeks over a low heat until they soften - not too hot or they will colour too much and become bitter. Add the garlic, the marinade, the rest of the balsamic and a litre of water. Bring to a boil and pour over the chicken, with the bay and orange rind. 


Put in the oven for 2 hours, checking partway through that there is enough water to cover the chicken. Add salt, pepper or a little balsamic if you wish. Serve with mashed potato.

Sunday, January 23, 2011

I needed something low stress for supper tonight, but i didn't expect anything so pretty (or quite as delicious). If you're going to make it, use buffalo mozzarella, so exquisitely soft and creamy. The children asked for second helpings.



6 eggs beaten, a packet of mozzarella and mortadella, chopped. A little grated parmesan, chopped parsley. Beat. Heat butter in a 25cm pan with handle until it sizzles. Cook egg mix for 5 minutes without stirring. Finish under a hot grill.